Trans Himalaya 2019: Part 1 – Uttarakhand


Dharma valley, May 6-8

The journey start on May 2nd from Chennai with a 35 hour Grand Trunk express train to Delhi. Warm hospitality by a Rajesthani family sharing home cooked food.


Teejam – Bona, May 9-10

We camped near a small forest next to the river just out of Teejam village. Teejam (1950m) has several shops and dhabas.


Bona-Lilam, May 11-12

We slept deeply that night after crossing three passes the previous day. At 5:30am we woke up and by 6am we resumed our descend along a nice path to Bona at 2050m


Ralam Valley, May 12-14

As the Milam valley road was closed we decided to explore the Ralam side-valley. At the end of this valley (30km) is the hamlet of Ralam 3500m which is inhabited only during summer.


Lilam to Kalpata, May 15-16

After a good night’s rest on a wooden platform in the dhaba of Buinee we rose up when the owner was returning. After chai, Maggie and eggs we packed up and crossed the Goriganga at 1600m


Kalpata to Kathi, May 17

After some hot chai I bid adieu to my warm host and descend into the river at 1870m. The path across the bridge soon hits a shop where I stock up fruits and biscuits


Pindari glacier, May 18-19

The night was rainy and puppy slept cosely to me inside the tent. Woke up Neil at Krishna cottage and after egg Maggie the three of us set out by 7am


Karkiya to Balan, May 20-21

After a warm night and good sleep at lower altitude we gobbled up parottas and dhal at the local dhaba. I moved to my bivy while Neil and Pratap were using the Gipfel tent


Balan to Joshimath, May 22-24

We rose up at 5:30am at the primary school on the outskirts of Balan at 2300m. After we break up our tent we drop into the home of the boy who had accompanied us the previous night


Joshimath to Mondal, May 25-26

After a warm night in a cosy bedroom and late night blogging at Salma 1600m our host woke us up with sunshine and hot chai at 6:30am


Sonprayag to Guttu, May 28

After a full-day journey traveling in 3 share taxis from Mondal to Sonprayag through madening pilgrim traffic and dusty under construction ghat roads we finally settled down at Trijugi Nārāyan 2200m, a peaceful hamlet above the pilgrim madness at Sonprayag 1700m


Ghuttu to Malla, May 29-30

After a long 12 hour previous day crossing the Kyunkhola Khal 3540m we spent the night in a small temple above Ghuttu village. We rose by 6am, came down to the market, had tea with biscuits and bought some fruits and biscuits for the day ahead.


Bhatwari to Hanuman Chatti, May 31-Jun 2

After a solid night rest in a grassy terrace farm below Malla I rose at 5:30am and started walking along the road to Bhatwari 1600m. I bought some fruits and biscuits for the next 2 days and started climbing a path towards Riathal 2200m through golden farm lands


Rajgarhi to Sankri, June 3-5

After a good night rest on a rooftop at Brahmkhal village I got down to have some tea and my favourite cream rolls. After trying in vain to hitch a ride in passing by share taxis, I finally got into the 7:30am public bus on the way to Barkot.


Natwad to Rorhu, June 6-7

Woke up around 5am from an open rooftop at Natwad 1400m at the confluence of the Rupin and Tons. Searched for a tea shop and was ready to head out.

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Phase 1 Uttarakhand completed in 27 passes, 127 hamlets – June 7

Trans Himalaya 2019 phase 1 completed. Uttarakhand done in 27 passes and 127 hamlets. 63 passes to go in Himachal, Ladakh and Garwal in the next 5 months.Valleys, passes, hamlets covered below