The night was peaceful on a raised bed of leaves in one of the wood homes of the isolated dwelling of Suked, high above the Sewa river valley. I woke up at 6:30am as light entered my shelter, packed up my gears and was on my way.
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Today’s plan was to continue along a trail contouring 500m below the steep ridgeline bypassing the Pateran and Batile peaks above. As per the Survey map there was no trail on top so I had come down the previous evening.
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A clear trail contoured around 3000m through open meadows, hopping across side ridgeline-s into adjacent side valleys of the Sewa river valley. I lost the trail a few times as it faded out in the meadows but was able to correct soon by referencing the Survey map.
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The meadows were deserted. Looks like the shepherds had not yet come up mid May. Periodically I passed through remote dwellings, all of which were uninhabited. I came across several ruins of carbon fibre iglos probably used earlier by police.
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Hiking along a contouring trail was much easier then following a ridgeline with continuous ascents / descents. First contact came with a gujjar guiding his buffaloes to a beautiful alpine lake. The animals were eager to swim in the cold water.
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Countless small streams were dropping from the ridgeline above carrying fresh snow melt water. It was such a beautiful eco system. The trail was climbing up and descending across small ridgeline-s and gullies.
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After Batile peak the path joined the top ridgeline hopping across small hillocks and saddles. I finally came across a few shepherds grazing the high slopes. The North face of the 3400m ridgeline was still covered by winter snow.
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At the Mahsan Gatti pass I descended into a mesmerizing valley. A small stream was peacefully flowing through a long flat valley with lush green open meadows bordered by forested slopes. Mid way stood a beautiful temple.
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The trail took a turn entering an equally beautiful side valley full of life. Hundreds of sheep and goat, several horses were grazing around the scenic campsite of a few gujjars. I immediately felt at home, perfect spot for the night halt.
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The gujjars were welcoming, giving me tea and rottis. The entire family – men with turbans and big beards, women wearing jewellery preparing food, kids playing around the meadows. A young horse was wearing a jacket for the cold nights.
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As the night fell, the gujjars lit up a campfire and assembled the herd near the campsite. Some 5 dogs were guarding the herd from nocturnal predators roaming the surrounding forests.
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