Traverse Planning – Pete Jost, Zanskar/Ladakh, Aug 2025

Introduction

Peter Jost one of my Patrons. I’ve been a bushwalker in Australia for decades and have walked in Sichuan, Qinghai, Nepal, Zanskar over the years. I’ve been trying to come up with something to do in Ladakh for a month but I’m having difficulty. I thought maybe walk to Nubra valley over one pass and come back over another, for starters.

Planning

Pete did a one month traverse through Ladakh and Zanskar in 2023 (Yellow) covering 4 sections: the Spangtang range circuit, the Stok Kangri range circuit, Markha to Pang and Sarchu to Zangla. This time we put together a beautiful traverse (blue) that covers pretty much the rest of Ladakh and Zanskar – Padum to Kanji, hopping between Indus to Shyok (Nubra) valley 4 times and Markha to Tso Moriri. Download GPX here and load in nakarte.me for an interactive map.

Experience

Used a new road to get to Lingshed – much shorter, via Chilling & Nerak along the Zanskar River. The taxi driver said we could only use it because it happened to be Sunday and therefore the roadworkers day off.

Camped at the spring above Lingshed. It was a bit windy and is just moved my tent from the spring to a more sheltered spot when a huge flock of sheep arrived and covered the spring where the tent had been. Ended up going over Barmai La, and I think that was best given that I’d just come from Aust. I’m sure Kesi La would be a much wilder experience though.
Found the road walking and heat hard but the gorges the road passed through were magnificent. Road workers from Nepal were very friendly and hospitable.
Dibling was beautiful. Open wifi there too!
I found ascent to Pingdon La grueling. Got caught in rain coming down from it but thankfully found a makeshift camp beside river because it was a long way to the camp marked on the map.
Next morning continued down on the river but missed a side track rising up above riverbed to avoid the impassable gorge. Climbed up that side because I could see the other side was impossible. Finally found the track that I’d missed. Felt great to be up high again. After a while there was a tributary crossing that was only just do-able, even first thing in the morning. (I checked – it was the Spangbok Nala – where I first met it) Spent the rest of that day camped at the ford before Rangdum ford – I crossed at that first ford, not Rangdum ford.
Very long day over the magnificent Kanji La but got to the camp on the map. I realised I’d stood on Kanji La exactly 40 years earlier, with a friend, almost to the day – Aug 1985, coming from Rangdum Gompa. I’d completely forgotten what it was like. There was a French group at the campsite. Very friendly camp staff as always seems to be the way.
The walk out to Kanji village fine but anxiety-provoking from multiple river crossings walking downstream as the morning progressed. I mean the river would be rising as the morning progressed. But it was fine. Got a share taxi from Kanji (monk driver!) to Heniskot on the highway where a travelling fruit & veg seller took pity on me and drove me 25km OUT OF HIS WAY to drop me at Lamayuru! What a guy. Made an appropriate gesture of course

Link to photos

Travel / Acclimatization

Flight to Delhi
Overnight bus to Manali
Day taxi to Padum, Zanskar (3550m) – 1 day
Optional: stop-over at Phuktal gompa
Acclimatize for 1-2 days
Hitch a ride to Zangla

Sections / Food points

Hanamur to Lingshet (2 days)
Lingshet to Kanji (3-4 days)
Kanji to Wanla (2 days)
Hitch a ride to Likir
Likir to Hundar Dok (2 days)
Hundar Dok to Leh (2-3 days)
Leh to Digar (2 days)
Digar to Tangste (2 days)
Tangste to Martselang (2 days)
Martseland to Rumsu (3 days)
Rumsu to Thugje (2 days)
Thugje to Karzok (2-3 days)
Optional: cross over from Karzok (Ladakh) to Kaza (Spiti) – 5 days
Total – 24 to 27 days
Hitch a ridge back to Leh
Fly out of Leh airport

Part 1 – Zangla to Lingshet

Zanskar valley, hitch a ride from Padum to Zangla (homestay, food)
Cross Zanskar river near Pidmo
Hanamur (cafe, homestay, pack up food)
Walk along Zanskar river, climb up to Parfi La
Zingchan Tokpo, Neche (campsite)
Lingche Tokpo, Hannumala
Lalang Tokpo, Chapskang La
Lingshet Tokpo, Lingshet (food, monastery)

Part 2 – Lingshet to Kanji

Lingshet Tokpo, Lingshet (food), Birma La
- Alternative: Kesi La (new road constructed across Barmi La)
Oma Tokpo, two crossings (wooden bridges), Dauri Nala, Dibling (remote hamlet)
Borong Nala, Doksa (deserted), Pingdon La
Spangbrok Nala, cross Spangbrok glacier stream (bridge)
Ringdom Nala – Kanji Nala intersection (cross through water in morning), Kanji La
Chelung Tagu Lungpa, Hemar Nala, Kanji Rong, Kanji (food, monastery)

Part 3 – Kanji to Photoksar

Kanji Rong, Kanji (food), Dumbur (remote hamlet), Yogma La
- Alternative: Dumbur – Gogma La – Shillakong
Shilakong Tokpo, Shillakong (animal herder), Shinguche La
- Alternative: trail through Shillakong Tokpo gorge to Wanla (might be flooded in August, check with locals)
Spangtang Tokpo, Sir Sir La
Photang Tokpo, Photoksar (food)

Part 4 – Photoksar to Nurla

Hitch a ride to Phanjia (dirt road)
Spangtang Tokpo, Hanupatta (remote hamlet)
- Alternative: trail along Machu Tokpo (might be flooded in August, check with locals)
Wanlah Tokpo, Phanjila (food)
Hinju Tokpo, Ursi (remote hamlet), Tar La – Tar (repeat from 2023)
- Alternative: Hinju (food) – unknown pass – Tar
Likir Tokpo, hitch a ride along NH1 to Lingstut (food?), Likir

Part 5 – Likir to Hunder Dok

Note: check if inner line permit is required to cross over to Shyok / Nubra valley
Likir Tokpo, Lingstut (food?, if not in dhaba along NH1), Likir, Phandey, Likir La
Palzampiu Nala, Hundar Dok (food?, if not Hundar)

Part 6 – Hunder Dok to Leh

Hunder Nala, Hunder Dok (food?), Thanglasgo Nala, Lasirmou La
- Optional: side-trail to Shatichhose Tso (lake)
Lalung Lungpa (careful: rock fall area), Murobog (remote hamlet), Phyang La
Sangto Tokpo, Leh (food, hotels), rest-day?

Part 7 – Leh to Diger

Note: check if inner line permit is required to cross over to Shyok / Nubra valley
Sangto Tokpo, Leh (food), Pass
Sabu Nala, Mangnoz (food?), Pulu Digar, Digar La
Lungtung Phu, Diger (food?)