We rose up at 5:30am at the primary school on the outskirts of Balan at 2300m. After we break up our tent we drop into the home of the boy who had accompanied us the previous night. He welcomed us into his traditionally built house with tea, fresh rottis and curd. We gobbled up breakfast with sunrise view on Trishul.
Stomachs reloaded we set out for a long climb of 1150m to the Ali Khal pass at 3450m, basecamp for the Roopkund trek, at 4700m still too much snow to attempt in May. A clear trail guided us through forest and beautiful pastures. At the pass there were a few shelters. On the other side a clear trail descends through scenic forest.
There is a guest house at Gairuli Patal 3200m from where a nice cobbled path winds down the valley till a small river crossing. We climb up to Dhar a small settlement at 2700m from where the path goes steadily down to the village of Wan 2450m.
At 12pm it s time for tea, Maggie with veggies and omelette to recharge for the next pass crossing.From Wan we follow a cobbled path along a small stream that climbs up to the Kukin Khal pass at 3100m. On the way I get company of some kids walking home from school and a dog who follows me all the way to the pass.
From the pass we descend through forest till Watoli at 2850m a small hamlet of partly ruined huts. A hiking party has pitched up in the neighbouring meadow. The trail now runs through Kanol a scenic village at 2700m and continues to descend into a beautiful valley dotted with small hamlets on the opposite side.
The usual afternoon showers treat me on some hazel. After two stream crossings and a solid descend we finally hit the road to Sitel at 1850m. Sitel is a small settlement with a few shops, dhaba and some guest houses where I indulge in some yummy fried alloo with freshly made rottis and 2 cream buns for desert. With no tent I settled down in the portico of a forest office house.
Rose up 5:30am after a good night rest and had some tea and cream buns at the Sithel dhaba. Followed the road for a few hundred meters before crossing a bridge over the Nandakini river and climbing up on the right side (downstream) of the valley. A nice path follows the valley contours high above the river through picturesque farmlands.
The path slowly climbs up towards the hamlet of Boora 2100m. A couple of girls give me company on their daily journey to school. My decision to do the climb on a light stomach worked well. At Padarghow 2400m a friendly farmer invites me to join for breakfast. Tea, rottis, green vegetable and curd go down well after a 2 hour climb.
Recharged I resume the ascent towards Ghuni 2400m from where the path climbs up steeply along a cliffs before entering in the forest. Before the pass I encounter a shepherd with 1000 sheep crossing the hamlet of Ghana 3050m. From there it s a short climb to the Surya Ghat pass at 3180m offering views on the snow peaks above Joshimath.
A cobbled path now descends through the forest in a largely uninhabited valley. After a steady downhill I enter the hamlet of Jhenji. The stomach is in need for a refill but unfortunately no shop or dhaba in this small settlement. Luckily I the teacher of the primary school invites me to join mid day meals.
From Jhenji the path further descends to the river where I cross the bridge and start a steep ascent on the other side of the valley. A landslide road has fallen in disuse and connects to Pana 2450m. After initial hairpins the road contours through scenic Preston towards Pana from where the path to the Kuari pass starts.
Another steep climb follows above Pana till the path crosses a major ridge at 3100m. Along the way a village boy gives me company retrieving his cattle back to the village. As the time is already running late and there is another 700m climb pending to the Kuari pass 3700m I decide to halt near a few ruins houses at Sartoli.
To my surprise I find a kind shepherd camping at the same spot inviting me over for tea and night stay. At sunset his 4 companions and some 1000 sheep and goat return to the campsite, an overwhelming sight. I settle near a warm campfire while my host treats me on tea, biscuits, rottis and dhal as the radio is playing jolly Hindi songs.
With a full stomach I settle down along with the shepherds below warm blankets and sheepskin under their tent. The night is peaceful and cold. The stars are shining bright in the clear sky. Next morning we rise at 5am and settle near the campfire for a hot cup of chai surrounded by the massive sheep herd.
I bid adieu to my hosts and set off along a clear path to the base of the Kuari pass. The trail goes through beautiful forest and climbs up across two side valleys and ridges. Along the way a scenic waterfall tumbles down from vertical cliffs above.
From here onward the path climbs up steeply 700m to the pass at 3700m altitude. With no breakfast the stomach let’s itself being heard and I gobble up a few remaining biscuits in my backpack to squeeze in some energy to push to the top through cold drizzly weather stunning views on both sides of the pass.
On the Northwestern side the trail goes across another two ridges and several snow sections before descending into a beautiful forested valley. The weather remains rainy and cold at this higher altitude. I met two other hikers near the top of the pass surprised to see me in shorts.
Now the trail descends along a gradual ridge into the forest and the runs along the Eastern slope of the valley around a ridge before it finally hits the Gorsoun top, where I meet some tourists coming up from Auli.At Auli a popular ski resort a cable card is pulling up tourists from Joshimath 700m below. I drop down a forest trail short cutting the hairpin bends of the road and finally rejoin Neil and Pratap near the taxi stand where I enjoy my first meal of the day at 2pm.
From Joshimath we take a taxi to Helong. Heavy inflow of weekend pilgrims causes an hour long traffic jam. We finally reach around 6pm and grab some dinner before crossing the bridge across the Alaknanda river into a side valley towards Urgam. Along the way me meet a friendly villager who invites us in his home for dinner and night stay at Salma 1600m.
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