Traverse Planning – Trans Uttarakhand, June 2024

Introduction

Peter Jost one of my Patrons. I’ve been a bushwalker in Australia for decades and have walked in Sichuan, Qinghai, Nepal, Zanskar over the years. I see you’ve been getting out into the mountains again (Facebook etc). Just whenever you have a chance, would love to talk to you more about telling for a month in Uttarakhand. I don’t know that area at all so I’ve just chosen this area in the east, near Nepal. Could I do a month on these various tracks? Any suggestions

Planning

Below a mid-altitude East to West traverse of Uttarakhand with some nice optional (*) higher altitude North diversions. Food supply points (***).

Optional: Dharma valley (*)

  • Beautiful valley running to the North with scenic, remote hamlets
  • ***1 dhaba on the way before Sela – pack up food for remaining or avail hospitality at Datu
  • Mostly jeep track / dirt track
  • Locals usually return by mid May to higher altitude settlements
  • Mid way check post by ITBP
  • I went along with a local person who told them I would stay with him and return next day so I was allowed in without taking prior permission
  • You can walk up to Datu – splendid views on Panghuli
  • Beyond that not allowed by ITBP
  • Ralam pass (5500m closed in May)

Teejam to Mathkot

  • Dharma Yankti valley
  • ***Teejam – pack up 2 days of food
  • Sungdom is last settlement / no shops
  • Balsi Khal
  • Jimba Gadhera – uninhabited
  • Dharti Kharak
  • Kulka Gadhera – uninhabited
  • Dharti Khal
  • *** Bona – hospitality, one of private houses has a grocery shop
  • Paina Gad valley
  • Tomik – small hamlet
  • Mujurka Khal
  • Rapti – village
  • Lot of new road development here
  • Madakani Nadi – no bridge, need to cross via Mathkot
  • ***Mathkot – bigger town, many dhabas
  • Goriganga valley

Goriganga valley

  • Bothi
  • Rockpath connecting many remote scenic hamlets
  • Dilam
  • Lang
  • Buin/Lilam – dhaba

Optional – Ralam valley (*)

  • ***Buin/Lilam – dhaba (no food beyond)
  • Here you can proceed along rock path straight North into the Ralam Gad valley
  • Beautiful valley till Ralam village 3600m
  • Birje Ganga pass into Milam valley (4600m) is probably closed in May (check with locals)
  • If so return to Buin/Lilam
  • Cross over Goriganga
  • ***Lilam – dhaba

Optional – Milam valley (*)

  • Lilam proceed north into Goriganga valley
  • In 2021 there was new road development here
  • (haven’t gone here so not sure on food supply – check at Lilam)
  • Several small scenic hamlets on both side of valley:
  • Martoli
  • Burphu
  • Ganghar
  • Milam – last hamlet
  • Milam glacier
  • Untha Dura pass – closed I believe / not familiar

Lilam-Namik

  • Goriganga valley
  • ***Lilam – dhaba / pack up food
  • Kwiri
  • Rur Khan pass 
  • Jakula Nadi – uninhabited
  • Sur Sungri Khal

Optional – Namik glacier (*)

  • Proceed North after Sur Sungri Khal (Survey map trail)
  • Ridgeline traverse Ranthal Dhar
  • Kaugudi Bhel pass (4600m) – not sure if open in June
  • Namik glacier
  • U-turn
  • ***Namik village – shop in private home / hospitality

Namik-Khati

  • Ramganga valley
  • Kimu
  • Optional – ridgeline traverse North to Nand Kund
  • Mandhari Kharak pass
  • Khalpata
  • Sarju river valley
  • Khaljuni – private house shop
  • Khati Khal
  • ***Khati village – dhabas

Optional – Pindari glacier (touristic route) (*)

  • Rock path North into the Pindari river valley
  • *** Dwali – dhaba
  • Phurkia
  • Zero point / Pindari Baba Math ashram (around 3700m)
  • Return to Khati village

Optional – Sundardhunga valley (popular route) (*)

  • ***Kathi – dhaba
  • North into the Sundardhunga valley
  • Jatoli
  • Sundardhunga
  • Climb Southwest to Devi Kund, Nag Kund lakes
  • Kanakata pass
  • Jatoli

Kathi-Wan

  • Surag
  • Jabri
  • ***Badiyakot – dhaba
  • Unnamed pass
  • ***Bharakhani – private shop
  • Unnamed pass
  • ***Himni village – dhaba
  • Kail Ganga valley
  • ***Balan – private shop
  • Ali Khal
  • ***Wan village – dhabas

Optional – Rup Kund (touristic) – check if open (*)

  • Proceed North of Ali Khal
  • Bedni Bughyal (scenic meadow)
  • Rup Kund lake

Optional – Nandakini valley (*)

  • From Rup Kund
  • Crossover Junra Gali pass
  • Descend to Home Kund
  • Descend into Nandakini valley
  • Follow Survey map trail to Sutol village
  • Continue downstream to Sitel village

Wan-Sitel

  • *** Wan – dhaba
  • Kukin Khal pass
  • Kanol – private shop
  • *** Sitel village – dhaba

Sitel to Jhinji

  • 3 options to cross over from Nandakini to Birahi Ganga river valley
  • Option1
  • ***Sitel 
  • Sutol
  • Khajralaai Kharak (Khai Kharak)
  • Jhiniji
  • Option2
  • ***Sitel
  • Ghuni
  • Chechni Binayak
  • Jhinji
  • Option3
  • ***Sitel
  • Sik
  • Khajralaai Kharak
  • Jhinji – shop

Jhinji to Joshimath

  • Jhinji 
  • Birahi Ganga valley
  • *** Pana – shop
  • Sartoli meadow
  • Kunwari Khal
  • Auli
  • Joshimath
  • Alaknanda river valley

Urgam to Okimath – high altitude

  • Alaknanda river valley
  • ***Urgam – dhaba
  • Saldawani Khal
  • ‘Mainwa Khal
  • Panch Dhyuli
  • Dhanya Dunkar Khal
  • Nandi Kund pilgrim lake
  • Kashni Khal
  • Madhyamaheshwar
  • ***Ransi
  • Mandakini valley

Urgam to Okimath– mid altitude

  • ***Urgam – dhaba
  • Unnamed pass
  • Kaigot
  • ***Dumak – shops
  • Toli Tal lake
  • Rudranath pilgrimage
  • Naola pass
  • ***Siroli villlage
  • ***Chopta village
  • Tungnath temple / Chandrasilla peak
  • Diurya Tal lake
  • ***Okhimath
  • Mandakini valley
  • Hitch a ride on road section to Sonprayag

Sonprayag to Gangi

  • ***Sonprayag – dhaba
  • Kinkola Khal pass
  • Gangi village
  • Bhilangana river valley

Optional: Shastru Tal (*)

  • Bilangana valley
  • Gangi
  • Kalinai
  • Climb up ridgeline to Shastru Tal lake as per Survey map trail
  • Gangi to Genwali
  • Billangana valley
  • Gangi
  • Muneri pass
  • ***Genwali – small dhaba
  • Bal Ganga valley

Optional: Ridgeline to Chauki (*)

  • Follow ridgeline trail North from Muneri pass to Chauki peak
  • Might possibly also connect to Shastru Tal lake

Genwali to Pinswar

  • Bal Ganga valley
  • *** Genwali – small dhaba
  • Chandiar Tal lake
  • Manal dwelling
    ***Pinswar
  • Dharm Ganga valley

Optional: ridgeline to Shastru Tal (*)

  • Manal dwelling
  • Follow ridgeline North
  • Shastru Tal lake
  • Take U turn
  • Follow ridgeline West
  • Kyarki Kal
  • Option 1: descend Northwest ridge to Jaurab (Survey map trail)
  • Option 2: proceed Southwest ridge to Kalaipir pass

Pinswar to Raithal

  • Dharm Ganga valley
  • ***Pinswar 
  • Kalaipir pass
  • ***Malla
  • Bhagirathi river
  • ***Raithal
  • Bhagirathi river valley

Raithal to Bhankoli

  • Dayara pass
  • ***Bhankoli
  • Binsi Gad valley

Bhankoli to Hanuman Chatti

  • Bhankoli
  • Dodi Tal lake
  • Darwa pass
  • Kandola
  • Hanuman Chatti
  • Yamuna river valley
  • Option 2: Ajricha pass
  • Option 3: Dhayakarsu pass
  • Bali pass North needs permission / guide

Barkot to Sankri

  • ***Barkot – dhaba
  • Yamuna valley
  • ***Rajgarhi 
  • Follow ridgeline North
  • Darsaun hamlet – no food
  • Kedar Kantha – touristic peak
  • Descend via ridgeline to ***Sankri
  • Option2: descend via ridgeline to ***Deora
  • Tons river valley
  • Forest checkpost at Naitwar

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *