After a good night’s rest on a wooden platform in the dhaba of Buinee we rose up when the owner was returning. After chai, Maggie and eggs we packed up and crossed the Goriganga at 1600m. From the bridge we climbed up steeply to Lilam from where we hit the road. A bit further we packed up some biscuits and Maggie at a small shop for the journey ahead.
Where the road turns into a right side valley we entered into a trail which crosses a small bridge and climbs up to Quirry a small hamlet at 2050m. The path then continues through beautiful green forest interlaced with open meadows. On the way we meet a lonely puppy which tags along with us after we share some cookies.
The trail climbs over a ridge between two small hills and we enter into a new valley. We traverse the upper part of the valley along the contours gradually climbing up till the base of the Rural Khan pass. On the way we meet a few large herds of sheep. The final ascent to the pass is a steep hairpin trail. A snow section remains below the pass at 3480m.
Time a quick drone shot running along the ridge with a beautiful skyline of snow covered peaks at the horizon in the late afternoon sun. Next we start a fairly steep descent along a rocky path through grasslands and beautiful rododendrom forests. 200m above the valley stream we find a nice flat meadow to pitch up camp at 6:30pm, next to the ruins of a few old houses.
This valley appears to be uninhabited, enclosed between two high passes. We gather some firewood and lit up a campfire to stay warm as a chill evening breeze sets in. We fetch water from the nearby stream and cook – you guessed it – Maggie for both of us and our new four legged friend.
After enjoying the side of the campfire we hit the sacks at 9pm and puppy settles down in front of our Gipfel tent below the cover sheet, shielded from cold and wind, and close to his two new masters. With a 3/4 moon shining bright above lighting up the meadow we fall asleep in this beautiful hideway valley which is our home for the night.
Beep beep 5:45am. Chill night due to the cold wind in exposed campsite. A quick rotating timelapse setup to capture the sunrise and camp breakup ceremony. And off we are by 6:30am. A gradual descent down the meadows and forest to the Jakla Nala at 2600m. From there 600m gentle ascent along the right valley slope through serene forest to the Sur Sungri Khal 3240m .
The sun finally hit us by 7:30am two hours after sunrise, a welcome warm feeling after the cold night. Along the way a few nice shepherd campsites. The forest was filled with pleasing sounds of birds awakening to the sunrays. 200m below the pass a nice cobbled pathway joins from the left / South which hair pins across the pass. This path is in much better condition then the one we came through battered by the weather elements through the years.
At the pass there is a small mandir. After the pass the path splits, right one goes to Sudhamkhan Pass (4000m), left one descends into the valley. The path made out of big flat rocks snakes its way down through vibrant green meadows. On the way I meet a group of hikers, one saying “Are you Peter from Chennai Trekking Club?”. It s a small (outdoor) world.Midway down the valley there is a small settlement of rock houses with straw roofs. At 2100m we finally hit Namik, a vibrant hamlet where people are preoccupied with harvest, barley, onions, etc. While capturing the picturesque homes and busy people one friendly villager invites me over for yummy home made food. Further down a few kids are performing a musical concert with their toys.
At the village shop I restock my biscuits and peanuts and after no sign yet of Neil I leave a message and decide to push ahead to cross another pass to stay on schedule. From Namik another 300m drop to cross the river at 1800m. Across the bridge a small less used forest trail turns right climbing up to Kimmu 2230m while the weather Gods open the flood gates.
Above Kimmu the “Western Traverse” GPS trail goes completely “off trail” through forest, streams and steep valley slopes. Extra calories are burned searching for a non existing trail while pushing through the wilderness. We finally hit the Madhari pass at 3020m and descend via a proper path down into the valley passing through a deserted hamlet of stone houses.
At 2070m we reach Kalpata where a friendly elder gentleman invites me over for night stay and dinner at the first house of this hamlet. Yummy rottis, rice and chicken with long conversations on a wide variety of topics while watching election rallies on a big TV screen. The night below a warm blanket inside a cosy home is peaceful and comfy.
Posts
Copyright © 2019 UltraJourneys - Supported by dreams