Alpine Hiking 5F – Rock & Ice

As we hike further above meadows at 3500-4000m altitude we enter into a world of rock and ice. There is no longer sufficient oxygen, water and warmth to sustain vegetation. These higher altitudes are also covered in a thick blanket of snow during winter. And some regions are covered by permanent ice called glaciers.

In this chapter we will be covering three types of Himalayan terrain: scree, glaciers and moraines which cover most of the higher altitudes.

The Miyar glacier in Lahaul covered by moraines as seen from nearby meadows
Glaciers (light blue) hanging from the North facing slope of the Eastern Dhauladar

Scree

The slopes below the highly eroded high altitude ridgelines are usually covered by scree. Scree is a mass of small loose stones that form or cover a slope on a mountain. Hiking across scree is usually effort intensive as the loose stones tend to give way below our feet. For steeper slopes a pair of hiking poles comes in handy for added stability and easier way to climb uphill on this lose terrain. Due to the moving nature of this terrain trails are usually not permanent in this type of terrain and quickly fade out due to sliding rocks.

Shepherd hiking up through scree covered slopes below the Kugti pass
Yaks descending on scree covered slope into the Orna valley in Zanskar

Moraines

Moraines are a mass of rocks and sediment carried down and deposited by a glacier, typically as ridges at its edges. While climbing up we usually encounter a large field of moraines before we hit the exposed glacier higher up. Moraines are large boulders and rocks on top of a melting ice sheet and therefore in motion. Trails across moraines are usually non-existent due to this movement.

Hiking moraines can be very effort intensive having to jump from boulder to boulder (the larger the boulders, the more the effort) with no real trail or path. Always take care as each boulder (on melting ice) can be lose and roll over as you place your weight on it. In some hiking routes watch out for cairns showing the path across the moraines.

Moraines on top of the Miyar glacier in Lahaul
Top level view of moraines covering the melting Miyar glacier

Glacier

A glacier is a slowly moving mass or river of ice formed by the accumulation and compaction of snow. They are usually referred to as permanent ice (vs. temporary winter snow which melts in summer). Glaciers are marked in light blue on Open Street Maps and Survey of India maps. Hundreds of larger and smaller glaciers exists across the Western Himalayas usually above 4000 meters. Glaciers usually hang on the North and West facing slopes (less solar exposure).

The surface of glaciers is mostly rough (rough ice, rocks, …) and usually pretty easy to traverse when the slope is gentle. For steeper slopes me require an ice axe to cut steps into the ice. Some glaciers are solid and no-risk to traverse, others are heavily melted with deep crevasses and more dangerous to traverse, especially when covered by winter snow.

Mani Mahesh glacier as seen from the Dham Godi pass
Highly crevassed Chobia glacier in Lahaul
Kaliheni glacier shown in Open Street Maps
Pindari glacier in Uttrakhand shown on Survey of India maps. Large moraines near the edges of the glacier are marked with blank stripes. Both boundaries and trails (Pindari Kanda below) across a glacier are marked with blue dotted lines

Crevasse

A crevasse is a deep open crack in a glacier formed by melt water. Crevasses are obviously dangerous as hikers might accidently fall inside (especially when covered by winter snow) and unable to get out. While traversing crevassed glaciers it’s usually a good idea to “rope up”. Attach all hikers to each other with a long rope such that if one steps in a crevasse, the others can arrest his fall. As a solo alpine hiker I use my hiking poles (maximum length) to “probe” the snow covered glacier in front of me to check for hidden crevasses for every single step.

A moulin is a vertical shaft in a glacier, formed by surface water percolating through a crack in the ice (see below).

Crevasses in the Chobia glacier hanging from the Pir Panjal in Lahaul
A moulin in the glacier below the Pratap Jot in Lahaul

Assignment

Acknowledge your understanding of the rock & ice world above the vegetation line

Chobia glacier as seen from the Chobia pass in Lahaul

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