Trans Himalaya 2019: Part 3 Zanskar / Ladakh

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Padum to Nerak, July 14-15

After an intense 3 day crossing of the Kang La (5400m) from Lahaul to Zanskar I had indulged in some good food, recharged my powerbank, restocked my ration and slept nicely in an empty shop overnight

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Hanumil to Stayangs, July 15-16

After a failed attempt to reach Nerak village through the Takti La due to high water currents I decided to try my luck on the other side of the Zanskar river to cross over towards Leh

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Stayangs to Kanji, July 17-18

I woke up outside the homestay at Stayangs and joined the three Swiss ladies which I had met the previous evening for breakfast at 6am. Their guide had prepared yummy porridge, a refreshing relief from the standard cuisine.

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Lamayuru to Chilling, July 19-20

I spent the night on a flat rooftop of an empty house at Lamayuru next to the Leh-Srinagar highway. I go back to the dhaba where I charged my power bank overnight

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Markha valley, July 21

I woke up early morning from a good night’s rest on the portico of Kaya gompa, first village in the Markha valley after a two day cross over from Lamayuru

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Hankar to Dad, July 22

After a peaceful night below the stars outside a home stay in Hankar I rise early for the planned crossing of the Zalung Karpo La at 5170m into the next valley towards the nomad village of Dad

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Dad to Debring, July 23

I wake up in the green meadows around the nomadic village of Dad next to a Swiss hiking group. The sunrise is lighting up the surrounding snow peaks

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Debring to Rumtse, July 24

After a good night rest in the open along the Manali Leh highway I grab some breakfast in one of the dhaba tents and pack up a few aloo parottas for the journey ahead to Rumtse across the Shingbuk La 5280m, Mandalchan La 5210m and Kyamar La 5100m.

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Miru to Shang Sumdo, July 25

After a comfy warm night inside the home stay at Rumtse offered freely by the kind lady at the nearby dhaba I ordered 5 aloo parottas for the next pass crossing of the Shapodak la at 4660m to Chogdo

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Shang to Stok base camp, July 27

While walking from Karu to Shang on 26th evening I was lucky to hitch a ride in the car of this Ladakhi family. He was an army officer stationed in the Saichen glacier in Nubra and was on his way home for vacation

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Stok Kangri, Stok La, July 28

The night at the Stok Kangri base camp at 4900m was short (2 hours) and cold due to the ongoing rains. I had snugged myself inside my sleeping bag inside my bivy to stay warm

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Yurutse to Sumda Chungun, July 29

After a very long previous day climbing Stok Kangri and Stok La from midnight till evening I slept off like a baby in a small stupa shelter at Yurutse. Woke up by 7am, packed up and was heading for the Ganda La at 4960m a solid 800m climb

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Sumda Chungchun to Sapta, July 30

After dinner and long evening conversation with two Israeli travelers over must visit hiking destinations in the world at a homestay in Sumda Chungchun, I slept below the open skies near the gompa above the villag

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Sapta to Panjila, July 31

Woke up by the daylight before my 6am alarm in the farmlands of a small hamlet above Sapta. Packed up and was heading for a 500m ascent to the Mangyu La pass at 4130m

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Lamayuru to Shilla, Aug 2

On Aug 2nd my next co-trekker joined me at Leh: Ganapathy. We met up at the German bakery along with Madhumitha, old CTC trekker, whom I met over breakfast after many years and was doing volunteering work at Leh.

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Shilla to Kanji, Aug 3

We woke up around 7am at our secluded paradise at a deserted home near the stream outside Shillakhong. The covered portico kept us dry from the morning drizzle

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Kanji La, Aug 5

he alarm rang at 6am but no response from the hikers tukked inside their warm sleeping bags. Ganapathy wore two jackets, sleeping bag and I had zipped him inside my bivy.

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Pidong La, Aug 6

The alarm rings at 6am. No response. 6:30am alarm. Still no response. Third one at 7am. I slowly wake up from below our tarp shelter on a small platform above the stream

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Dibling to Stayangs, Aug 7

The night at Dibling at 3900m was pleasant and warm. I woke up around 6:30am, packed up and decided to have breakfast after a few hours of walking.

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Stayangs to Nerak, Aug 8

I wake up from a cold, rainy night in the farmlands around Stayangs at 4100m. Loaded with jam-butter spread chapattis I climb up the nearby Kyupka La at 4400m towards my destination of the day: Nerak village.

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Yulchung to Hanumil, Aug 10

Having missed to sync up (as earlier planned) with my co-trekker Palani (we split after Kanji La) at Nerak on Aug 9th I decided to fast forward back to Padum which was our agreed backup plan

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Niala Konste La, Gotunte La, Aug 13

I woke up from a windy and rainy night on a flat space above the Lumen valley. The boulder next to which I slept did not the wind completely so the flappering of my bivy resulted in a disturbed sleep

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Tsarap, Marang La, Aug 14

I spent the night in a shelter at Mune Le, an uninhabited hamlet in ruins along the Tsarap river. It was raining and the water was leaking through the damaged roof during the night

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Zara Chu, Pogmar La, Aug 15

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